Question

9) What three factors determine ocean wave height in deep water? (3 pts)

Answer 1

Waves are disturbances of the ocean's surface and can be seen at any beach. They are caused by the mechanical energy that has been transferred to the water from the wind blowing over its surface. It is thought that ripples play an important role in providing the surface roughness necessary for the wind to push or pull the water.

wave height is affected by wind speed,wind duration (or how long the wind blows), and fetch, which is the distance over water that the wind blows in a single direction. If wind speed is slow, only small waves result, regardless of wind duration or fetch. If the wind speed is great but it only blows for a few minutes, no large waves will result even if the wind speed is strong and fetch is unlimited. Also, if strong winds blow for a long period of time but over a short fetch, no large waves form. Large waves occur only when all three factors combine.

As wind-driven waves approach the shore, friction between the sea floor and the water causes the water to form increasingly steep angles. Waves that become too steep and unstable are termed “breakers” or “breaking waves.”